Art and Prayer Journey to Asmara
This is
a picture taken in front of Enda-Mariam - St. Marry church - in Asmara just
before the Ethio-Eritrean war. (The round insert is in Keren). I have been
wishing to go back to this spot and pray for joy when peace opens the barred
road to Eritrea. It has been a long time waiting. And there is no sign that
this will happen anytime soon. But, why wait? Why not make it happen? This seems
a sheer wish for an Ethiopian living in Ethiopia. If we the people collaborate,
however, there is no reason it won’t happen. I am proposing a prayer and art Journey
of Ethiopians and Eritreans for Peace (JEEP), for us to go to Asmara, and for
Eritreans to come to Addis Ababa, to pray- and sing-along, and, in so doing, to
create an opportunity for divided families to reunite and give impetus for the political
peace process.
I was
in Tigray, at a village called Mai-Nebri, when the Ethio-Eritrean war broke.
Following an ordinary countryside evening, I and my colleagues woke up early (for
our fieldwork) to be unpleasantly surprised by caravans after caravans of tanks
and other heavy artillery entirely new to us. We later heard the media announce
what was happening: war is coming!
The
very evening the war gong sounded that unexpectedly, a number of village
mothers gathered, and, walking on their bare knees and hands on Mai-Nebri’s
gravelly ground, made prayers deep into the night, unrestrained by the pain and
the flood of blood flowing from their knees and hands – pleading God to stop
the war that came so suddenly, not to take away the peace they started to enjoy
after many years of suffering, and to spare their children that fatefully
escaped the previous war. Those mothers’ pious and fervent prayers made even
the unbelieving among us to bow down to pray.
That
was the closest I experienced a looming war. The contrast was striking! There
are these mothers that shed blood and tears so that the war may not come, and
there are those forces marching to shed blood and tears for the war. This is a
small village. One can only wonder how many more people were praying so
fervently nationwide. That this prayer did not stop the war never made me
consider it a wasted innocence. On the contrary, as a believer in the potency
of prayers, I opted for thinking that it must have contributed for the
salvation of the numberless souls slaughtered, and for the strengthening of
many hearts and families shattered, by the war.
A few
months earlier, I and my colleagues were in Eritrea for a work-related visit.
We entered Asmara as evening approached. Members of the Eritrean army stopped
our friends following us in another vehicle and took them to their quarter for
questioning. As we later learned, the reason was that they were driving when
the national flag was being pulled down. Learning that they were visitors, the
army released them without much trouble.
When
our visit started next morning, I got out in a traditional costume, with a
ribbon of Ethiopian flag on my hat. Some of my cautious friends were quick to
advise me to remove the flag, afraid that Eritreans may not be too pleased to
see the Ethiopian flag in their land as their wounds that ‘this flag’ gave them
did not yet heal. I didn't heed their advice, thinking to myself, a people that
respects its flag so much should similarly respect the flags of other people;
or at least allow other people to show respect for their own flag. You may
consider this naiveté, knowing that people burn the flags of other nations to
express their anger and they may not spare the person that caries it high when
they do.
For
nearly a week, I walked around with the ribbon of the flag on my hat. The fears
of my friends did not materialize. No Eritrean, in the city or in the
countryside, showed me an unpleasant face because of the flag. In Asmara, an
old Ethiopian lady saw the flag and approached me to express her joy to see her
flag in public and her wish to return home. Otherwise, our time in Eritrea was
entirely in a feeling of fellowship, seasoned by the Ethiopian music that we
used to hear in nearly every hotel we visited, at times singing along with
Eritreans, as some of us prayed by their side in churches, mosques, or
devotional centres. This humble experience was a confirmation to my belief that
the incidences of the time are powerless to sever the deeply rooted ties
between the two people.
Later,
when I arrived in China for a study, it was an Eritrean guy that received me.
This Eritrean, an ex-freedom fighter at that who participated in the later
Ethio-Eritrean war as well, was my dorm-mate nearly two years. Our political or
nationalistic side was only the smallest, an undefining aspect of our
relationship. My friend’s sense of humour, the harrowing recollections of his
fighting days that he used to tell me, the traditional music we joyfully
shared, and the prayers we chanted together, all of which constituted the greater
part of our human interactions, might have helped remove the barriers that
could have been hidden in our hearts. The road of forgiveness and understanding
was the natural and the most fulfilling choice for
us.
Whenever
the issue of the Ethio-Eritrean peace process is mentioned, I think of the many
mothers that are praying fervently, like the mothers of Mai-Nebri, for a
glimpse on the faces of their beloved and are feeling frustrated thinking their
prayer may not be answered. I think of the joyful times I had in Eritrea. I
think of individuals on both sides, like the lady I met in Asmara, who
endlessly wait with the hope of returning home. I think of people like my
dorm-mate who are ready to rise above their painful memories and hold on to the
stronger roots that unite than divide us.
Obviously,
my experiences and memories are humble compared to the heart-rending
experiences and memories of thousands. But they are more than enough to prove
to me that there are many people at both sides desiring reunion, despite the
anger and redness-of-face in the political realm; more than enough to make me
ask: is the relationship between countries not the relationship between people
and individuals as well? Why should this human relationship be denied voice to
the extent that it appears non-existent? Aren’t we people that prefer to define
ourselves spiritually than materially? Why should we allow the smallest part of
our being define our personal and national relationships? If we give a greater public
expression to the human side of Ethio-Eritrean relationship, couldn’t it
energize and help speed up the political peace process?
As I mentioned
earlier I am proposing a public movement, born out of my reflections such as
the above, to initiate people to people collaborations and enable the political
peace process find momentum. I have been thinking of this for quite long.
Earlier, the time did not feel right. The political will expressed by our Prime
Minister recently suggested to me that this should be the time to try to
realize it.
The
idea is simple. I, my Facebook friends, and their friends that support this
idea will:
·
Ask 500 to 1000
individuals to sign up to make a prayer and art journey to Asmara, and for
Eritreans in Eritrea to make a similar journey to Addis Ababa.
·
When we get the
required number of supporters from both countries, plan and organized our
efforts, involving artists and other volunteer people of influence at both
sides, and try to get the attentions of relevant institutions in both
countries.
·
Ask the relevant
institutions of the two governments to give us permission, and approach AU, the
UN, and other concerned organizations to give us assistance we may need.
·
Publicly fix an
official date for the journey, and, accompanied by AU and/or UN peacekeeping
forces if need be, make the journey of peace on land to hold a prayer vigil and
an art and fellowship day with Eritreans of all religions and walks of life in
front of Enda-Mariam or another public space.
·
On our return, have
the signed-up Eritreans make a similar journey to Addis Ababa and hold the
prayer vigil and the art and fellowship day at Maskal Square or at another
selected public space.
·
Continue organizing
this voyage for peace, this Journey of the Ethiopian and Eritrean for People
for Peace, annually or biannually until the broken relationship between the two
people is fixed and is re-established on a firmer foundation.
Friends who support
this idea, please ‘like’ and/or ‘share’ it with your friends. As soon as we get
reasonable number of supporters, we will choose volunteer organizers in
different areas of our work wherever they may be, who mainly work in their
spare times from their homes using our Facebook and other social media pages
until the time our move requires full time commitment.
With the interest
of giving a public base for this peace effort, I did not share the idea with
any institution or media. I believe the institutions and the media that support
the idea will respond to this call and will make their own contribution to the
realization of the JEEP.
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